Hi new to posting but ive been reading through your conversations for weeks! Lol


Active Member
So yea u dont know me yet but i know u well lol ive been e stalking u lol im jk

But seriously there is sooo much win in this forum i especially would like to show my appreciation to jtsstang your overall knowledge of the tuning and all the componets to get the perfect tune is super impressive i hope to be there soon.. other people on here hav helped me
Learn alot. the road race build thread that he blew the engine first day then put a stroker then sold it for a miata was epic im still browsing threads

Since im on the topic im building a custom turbo kit for my 2000 3.8 manual convertible so maybe if some one is kind enough they can point me to an epic thread or 2 that will help me in my quest to hav as much knowledge as possible to build this turbo kit and make reliable power for a good time to come.. i would rep u up the arse lol

Soo a couple bullets i kinda want to jot down to give u an idea of where my head is at as far as letting u get an idea of my knowledge level and what my plans are at this stage of the project...

Basics that ive learned so far..
A bigger turbo has less back pressure temperatures lag is longer but boost hits harder and has room to grow so i will sacrafice response for lower egts and a broad horizon
The wastegate and blow out valve should be oversized somewhat or hav 2 each and close to the turbo to minimize or completely eliminate the chance of surge and boost spike
Turbos dont like backpressure so i will be putting a dump anything to lower uneccessary pressure to keep temps down
A cold air intake is kinda pointless becase air gets hot again anyways by being compressed or everylittle bit will help?
External wastegate is easier to control or change later
Turbo oil and water cooled with a turbo timer to prevent cooking oil after shut off plus the turbo ill be clocked 15 20 degrees so the hot exit is on the bottom and the cooler entrance is on the top to enhance the circulation or bubble effect or w.e i forgot the term used..
Normaly the death of an engine are moments of running lean
Return fuel system with new lines pump filter rails regulator and injectors is safest way to insure a proper airfuel ratio throughout all operations
For the blow by maf i will need an 05 maf and then replace the slot disk about 14 inches from throttle body in a straight tube where there isnt excessive turbulance or non linear airflow

Things im considering...
Im using a single core procharger air2air intercooler that i got of Craigslist for 140 bucks
I have a muffler shop here that does some pretty good welds on i guess wat they use for exhaust pipes is a form of steel .. anyway my plan is to leave my passenger side bbk shorty header the way it is run the crossover 2.5 behind the engine flip the drivers side forward run a collect the two 2.5 steel exhausts right before turbo which will sit where battery is now...
The kicker is watscomes next tell me what u think i would like to have them weld my charge piping with the same steel pipes... i think the only thing would have to check to really know if this would work is the smoothness of the inside of the pipes and the smoothness of the inside of welds
I want to run the smallest id pipes possible compressor outlet 2.5 till intercooler which is 3 inch i think then 3 inch to throttlebody which is 3 inch aswell i think.. if throttle body is bigger that three inch i will put the enlarger right after intercooler so to hav smooth flow by the time of reaching maf..
I hear seamens deka injectors are hard to tune in low rpm and i also herd there are 69 pound injectors that go well with the sct livewire ts that i have now but last but not least i read on this forum of some pricey injectors that are overall ideal i hav the info screenshot i think for later reference..
I know u get wat u pay for so im willing to spend some extra bucks to insure confident reliability and room to grow..
Im in the market for some higher volume rails for added assurance

Things i have so far..
Aem electric fuel pressure guage to read incar
Wideband airfuel sensor to work with lcd livewire digital sceen (kinda regretting that decision.. [shoulda just got an aem a.f guage and called itda day]

My plan of action in chronological order
Get all electronic digital with datalogging capabilities.. egt guage oil pressure guage intake temp guage to work with 05 slot style maf
My plan is to get as many guages installed and working to insure proper operation first install fuel system on na engine at home test to insure pressure and no leaks have a base tune sent and waiting to be uploaded flip drivers side header at home the idea is to have everthing ready so that i can tow it to exhaust shop in the morning with turbo maf and intercooler ready weld the piping upload base tune and drive it slowly watching guages never entering boost or just tow again prolli to fynetune where will already hav n after noon appointment to get it dyno tuned... although after reading jtstang and watching videos im tempted to work with him instead i feel confdent the chances of jt making a careless mstake are less then some random tuner reputable or not..
Im going for w,e hp i can make safely on stock motor and 2.5 piping until later i will put windsor intake then maybe some heads from super six
With stock motor and this set up i assume i will be at 320 360 range and almost 400 torque wen wastegate opens..

A little weird but i swapped out my 327s for 273s alot of the races i get into are not from the dig the longer gears give turbo time to shine and i drive this car on the highway to work everyday 3500 rpms at 70 mph is just not practical as unpractical as this car is that i will not do...
Theres more but i guess i will like to see my audience first lol i really appreciate u guys please help me along the way as i dive down the rabbit hole and blow money that i should really be saving lol cheers ill ship u some beer from miami in the end lol


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Phil II

Cone Destroyer
Welcome. I think most people reading your posts will appreciate it if you invest some effort into organizing your thoughts.


Active Member
Haha! Theres just do many things i dont know where to start! I will try harder to be more collected next time.. but hey thank you for posting on my thread! I was scared i wouldent get any response phil you are another one ive been learning from thank you for your contributions i am still reading the sixshooter twin turbo build thread information overload! System shutting down..


Boosted V6
Thank you for the kind words lol. I see you read my post about how to route the cross-over using stock headers? I did it opposite and built a custom passenger side header for my rig. First off the procharger ic is a very nice piece. A vertical flow intercooler will be more efficient and has less pressure drop. There is a reason the 1000+ hp a2a cores use the vertical flow. One thing I noticed about your car is the front bumper, I don't think it's practical for an a2a ic. If you have the stock piece might be a good idea toput it back on.

Good choice on switching to return fuel. Even with a stock regulator there will be a 1:1 rise in fuel pressure vs boost psi. The sd injectors have good idle quality. For that area I would go 60's and be done. No need to go with an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge as you can log it with your livewire. It's under the pid pressure drop across injectors. Ive got a little trick on how to retain the fuel pressure sensor for return swap. Do you have e85 at your local gas station?

For the turbocharger on stock split port heads, you are not going to see a whole lot of back pressure with a small turbo. On that note backpressure is not what kills these engines with a quick spooling smaller turbo, it's the cylinder pressure a smaller turbo creates at lower rpm. The stock rods cant handle a lot of engine tq. There are A LOT of turbo's that will work well with a stock motor. For a stock motor that doesn't have a whole lot of lag and will pull to 6000rpm it's tough to beat a gt35 61mm. There are a lot of variants of this compressor wheel, it can be packaged in just about any cover, and it has made over 600rwhp on these engines.

The 05+ slot maf has great tenability, I run the hpx version with 80lb injectors. A few hiccups here and there but I'm also running a healthy cam. As for the charge piping I prefer aluminum. I will say the less couplers you have the better off you will be. Tial and precision make good external wg's if you don't plan on running an internal gated turbo. Blow off valves are subjective. I don't run one and never have. No issues either.

Is your car auto or manual? Good luck and welcome to the forum.


Active Member
Wow *tear* im honored... jtstang the man in the flesh talking to little ol me... this is an emotional moment for me... lol i need a minute...


Where do i begin..
Honestly i feel like i hit the holy grail
Ive been looking and searching and typing and reading and seeking and prying for so long!.... ahh!...
So now i feel like everything is falling together perfectly and im so grateful god has blessed me abundantly im humbly honored..
Any way enough about me lets talk about this car
Its manual i put a shorter shift shaft not really a short shifter but a huge improvement .
How can u not run a blow out valve i thought thats how u idle it leaks pressure so it can vacuum im still confused about that part..
I already bought the fuel pressure guage i just want all my temps and pressures and controls and everything easy to see and reach being as that im the only one that drives it ive just been taylor fitting everything as i go..
I chose to position the turbo on the drivers side where the battery goes mostly because the intake is on the passenger side so it was a nice linear flow no sharp bends and the intercooler is designed for horizontal top to bottom enter at the top leaves the heat at the top then it exits at the bottom where its cooler i had an idea that i would extend the plastic tubes to my windshield wiper spray nozzels and position one at my intercooler and one at the charge pipe right before the maf and fill it with water and maybe alcohol haha and make a huge reservoir and just spray it all over the place whenever i hit like 6/8 throttle or more lol has anyone done that? I also wanna cut out the little hole that is like a fake ram air on the hood and i wanted to start a duct with like aluminum sheet metal and i dont have a welder so i was planning on doing it with rivets but yea make a duct starting at the intake manifold kinda hovering over then over throttle body then like completely surrounding intake all the way till it turns into the subframe then continue the concept till the exit of the intercooler so its all has its own seperate air space and the entrance will face the front of the car so it will supplied with clean cool air all the way to the intake manifold..
Anyways... so i guess the next thing ill order is the hpx maf.. i bought a 65 mm i think it was 65 mm but it had the wrong throttle cable connection i tried ho rig it but i wouldent idle right i donno anyway i put the stocker back but now that im going boost i can put like a 70 mm this time right?
Yea we have e85 i should do that huh super consistent cool running is the advantage their so u can tune it leaner right?
Just let me know what i can put and do make ur tune easier cause i noticed the price of guages and stuff determins if they datalog and other features and stuff i will get that stuff for u little by little but i will u will see i am determined to see this through nice and slow..

For the bumper im just gonna cut a huge square hole and put it right in the middle of the fog lights

.....its gonna be

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Boosted V6
The benefits of e85 is anti detonation properties, lowered egt's, and the overall cooling capabilities. All pump gas now contains ethanol, except for some marine use. The reason it's added is this is what big oil has switched to increase pump gas octane. I wouldn't worry with methanol injection at this point, get it running first and see where your iat's are with the boost you plan to run. You can easily make 350-400rwhp on a super conservative tune with pump gas and very little timing.

No need to use anything over the stock tb for your build. It will outflow the engine easily. When you do the windstar swap pick up a used gt tb as it's right at 68mm. It doesn't have iac provisions but you have to relocate the iac with this swap on a stock hood.

Are you saying you procharger ic is horozontial flow? All the pc ic's ive seen were all vertical flow cores. Throw a pic up if you can.


Active Member
Ok I think I'm ready to buy some parts... which hpx maf exactly do I need I figure I would get the big tial waste gate 80 mm area is there a drawback to that? Can u tell me more about this no blow out valve system the iac sensor normally goes in the intake manifold?

Phil II

Cone Destroyer
I think you should put the credit card away until after you flesh out your entire plan.

Blow-off valves are a means of relieving pressure on the cold side after the throttle is shut during rapid transients. They are not the only means, just the most common.

IAC is an abbreviation for Idle Air Control. It's a very small valve that bypasses the throttle body. The ECM uses this to maintain minimum air flow.


Active Member
Ahh ok that clears that up now thank you phil ok so im gonna need one of those then i was mistaking iac for intake temp sensor any specifics i should prolli install the valve before the sensor to have an accurate reading? Dam that sucks because i was really looking forward to the pshhh everytime i shift.. i still want the pshhh why wouldnt i use a blow out valve i thought protecting the turbo from surge and the engine from boost spike was like priority number one in my mind i would want to create multiple fail safes to eliminate any chances leave nothing up to chance the way i c it i want to buy the best and biggest like right at the line of being too much that will work with this set up so if i decide to go coyote swap all i need is a manifold rails and injectors of if i decide to go super six i can with even more to spare so once i realized i can just swap the whole system to another car with a couple changes nothing major i knew to buy the newest relatively (to my budget) most technologically advanced best and biggest and longest lasting everything new so theres no suprises and i can eliminate them as a potential problem wen trouble shooting starts...


Boosted V6
Whats your budget for a turbo? I would not choose that turbo for your car. No need for an 80mm bov. Check out the jgs 50mm for a quality budget piece.


Active Member
My budget is as much as i have to spend to completely insure quality reliability and maximum performance!

Y wouldent u choose that turbo?


Active Member
i eat sleep and breathe making this turbo kit its the most exciting thing i ever did although ive said that before but building a successful turbo car is gonna be a huge! #Milestone moment for me so i hope everything goes smoothly because i intend to proceed cautiously and skillfully.. if i can
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Boosted V6
Cant think of any draw backs with the 80mm except more money. My car is an auto so a bov is not really needed for my setup. For a manual it can be of use. That turbo is going to be lag city on your stock motor. If money is no object this is the turbo I'd go with for a stock engine...http://www.precisionturbo.net/turbo...ails/Entry-Level-Turbocharger---5931E-MFS/524


Boosted V6
If you want a turbo to grow into this is a bad little bitch!
I run this unit on my 4.3 stroker up to 17psi and it was nasty combo! Best street turbo for a built v6 hands down. My setup now has a trans-brake and currently running an s366 but switching to a custom fi s371 when I have the cash. Jose at forced inductions would also be an option for a stock 3.8l turbo. You are limited to around 350rwhp with the stock engine is what sucks because these engines are capable of so much more.