00 turbo singleport project

fasterthanyou

Active Member
To be honest I'd be content with 12s on its first track day. My guess is 12.8 @110 with a slow 60'.

I'm predicting a combination of problems such as turbo lag off the line, excessively lean or rich conditions which will require tune adjustments and possibly transmission issues. I've noticed the transmission shudders badly in 4th gear. 1,2 and 3 seem ok. 4th worries me.
 

fasterthanyou

Active Member
I'm going to try to sneak in some dyno time tomorrow afternoon before heading out to the track. So far I've just been street tuning it. It runs okay. I believe i can do better on a dyno though.
 

fasterthanyou

Active Member
Firestone sucks. At least the one local to me does.. those clowns never ordered my tires that they were supposed to have this morning.. I hate to bash companies but this really screwed up my dyno day and track day.. damnit...
 

fasterthanyou

Active Member
I got back in town from georgia yesterday, and took my car to the dyno today.

I went to start the mustang today and primed the pump a couple of times before starting. I heard a steady dripping sound before starting it up. Looked underneath and saw there was a large fuel leak from the aeromotive inline fuel filter. Was an easy fix, the end cap of the filter just needed to be tightened.

I drove the mustang 30 minutes to the dyno with no problems. Strapped it down and started with dialing in the fuel. Did some light throttle and part throttle runs across the rpm range to dial in the fuel.

Got the low/mid range fuel pretty much spot on. But thats where the good times ended.

In boost it was pretty happy around the 12:1 area with only a couple of psi but i let out because i noticed the spark advance was climbing to 35-39 degrees. I spent the next hour and a half trying to chase down what could be causing the spark to go to the high 30s when im commanding 17-20 degrees.

I zeroed out every single spark adder/subtractor I could find - no luck. I copy/pasted the 3 spark tables to make them all identical - no luck. I even set all 3 spark tables to 10 degrees and it still gave 35-39 degrees of timing.

At this point I figured it might be a load scaling issue since it wasn't reading over 100% engine load. It capped out at 100% load even in boost.
I re-scaled the load for ALL of the spark and fuel tables. Adjusted the timing maps accordingly. Still no luck...

I shut the engine off and just sat there for a while thinking of what I would try next. I called it a day and when I went to fire up the engine, it wouldnt fire up. It sounded like it lost compression in half of the cylinders and was cranking over slow and sputtering.

Long story short i found that my power steering pump locked up. Go figure. I had to leave my car there and catch a ride home. Ill head back monday with a new pump. Or if im able to find the alternator bracket I modified to delete the power steering pump ill use that instead.
 

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fasterthanyou

Active Member
Until then.. here's the graphs from the several dyno runs i made while trying to fix this spark timing issue.

Lol
 

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fasterthanyou

Active Member
I forgot to follow up with this. I replaced the steering pump and looped the line just to get me by.

Was still unable to control the spark.

Long story short Im pulling the motor for a rebuild.
 

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fasterthanyou

Active Member
Yoink! ...this is getting too easy.
 

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fasterthanyou

Active Member
Heads are off. Piston rings and gasket set ordered. Also found my valve seals are shot.
 

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fasterthanyou

Active Member
Picked this beauty up from 94v6kid. Pictures really don't do it justice. This thing looks so pretty.

The only modification it needs is a plate to block the silencer ports so it will really scream.
 

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Lonnie-S

Member
Well, I'm glad you got the Megasquirt working. Sorry about the blow by. Could it just be a break-in/seating issue that's temporary?

Cheers,
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
Watched the video. Don't think that is blow by at idle. But, some questions. Do you have the passenger side vented somehow? The bottom of the crankcase has to breathe. On the driver's side, the stock setup is a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation). If not vented on the passenger side, you will compress the bottom of the crankcase and start blowing the front and rear crank seals. On the driver's side, the setup is designed to pull oily vapors and recirculate them back into the upper intake manifold and burn them in the combustion cycle. The crank acts like a pump and pushes oily vapors up and into the driver's side valve cover area. On the passenger side, the system is set to allow clean air to enter the bottom of the crankcase via the passenger side valve cover hole/opening.

There are some pretty easy fixes. First, remove the driver's side valve cover, look inside, and notice some screws holding down a flat plate. Remove the plate and stuff some semi-course steel wool into that area and reinstall the plate. Make sure there is a small drain hole in the corner of the steel plate at the lowest point which would be the outside of the valve cover corner closest to the firewall. The steel wool will capture some oil vapors and condense them into oil drops which will flow down hill toward that 1/8 inch hole in the square plate. Second, you can purchase an oil coaleasing filter which will trap the rest of the oily vapors and deposit them in the container which can be drained about once per month. Third, if your motor is boosted, you can install a brass check valve with 1/2 psi of pressure which will close when the motor goes into boost. Forth, on the passenger side, can't recall exactly how the stock factory setup was designed but think a tube went from the air box to the passenger side valve cover. Thus, air could flow from that filtered area and head down into the crankcase, recirculate, and then head up into the driver's side valve cover where the pcv would allow the "blow by" to get burned in the motor. Blow by is kinda a technical term which means some compression gases are pushed by the rings into the bottom of the crankcase under boost conditions. During N/A engine operating throttle settings, the bottom of the crankcase should ideally be in a vacuum situation from 1 to 4 inches of vacuum.

Alternatively, some guys use catch cans (puke cans) to catch the oily vapors and ditch the pvc system. If emissions testing is an issue, the catch cans cannot pass the emissions testing visual inspection.
 

fasterthanyou

Active Member
My old worn out t76 master power wouldn't stop leaking oil so I picked up this little guy. Precision 7675 with a .81 back housing. I opted for the .81 instead of the .96 to help spool it up a little quicker.
 

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fasterthanyou

Active Member
I would have had this on sooner but I spent the past 7 days in the hospital.

Here's the precision 7675 installed. Still fits behind the bumper even with the air filter on.
 

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Sideshow Bob

Active Member
Sorry to hear about the hospital hope you get to feeling better.
That turbo setup looks sweet. I thought you were going to put the supercharger on.
 

fasterthanyou

Active Member
Sorry to hear about the hospital hope you get to feeling better.
That turbo setup looks sweet. I thought you were going to put the supercharger on.
Thanks dude. It's nothing life threatening but still majorly sucked.
Oh and the m90 will most definitely be going on. I decided to take one step at a time for now as far as this build goes. I rebuilt the motor, got that running. Then got the megasquirt to work and now the engine runs entirely off of the megasquirt.
I recently replaced the turbo with a precision unit and the leaky turbo issue is no longer an issue.
I want to get this running good on the turbo setup. Once it's running good with the turbo alone, I'll install the m90 and rework the tune for that.

I'm really interested in how the torque curve will look with the m90 and turbo but im also really interested in actually driving and racing this car lol. Its been stagnant for too many years.

I am taking the mustang on a cruise this Saturday night. I'll lean on her a little bit. I've never actually gotten the wastegate to open. I have 20lb springs in the wastegate. We'll see if I can press the right keys on my laptop to get it to full boost without acting up.
 

fasterthanyou

Active Member
The interior of this car is a F-ing mess. The rats nest under the steering column is cleaned up and i found the cover and put that back on.

I moved the megasquirt to the glovebox so its not laying on the passenger floor.

I put the stock ecu back in its factory location. I can't put the passenger side kick panel back on because of all of the wiring I had to do for the megasquirt.

I'll get around to cleaning the passenger kick panel wiring up but its not a huge priority for me right now. I really just needed to clean it up enough to make it drivable.

Also I lowered the spring pressure for the wastegate down to 11psi. I realized that starting off with 20psi springs was a bad idea. Its better to start low and go up.

I put a black and blue spring in the tial 44mm gate to make 11.6 psi or so.
 

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6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
Just an FYI. I run 8 lb springs in each wastegate. In theory, those 8s should max out at 16 psi. But no, on the balls to the walls dyno, the psi got up to 21. So, you should probably start with maybe just a 6 lb spring which would let you get to around 12 psi of boost. For some reason I do not understand, the boost output seems to be around double the spring rate.
 
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